Landscape photography must read tutorial (5)

AE almost now produce a 35 mm SLR cameras has several built-in automatic exposure modes

AE

Almost now production a 35 mm SLR cameras has several built-in auto-exposure mode is optional.

These models are typically: Aperture priority mode (you set the aperture f value, the camera automatically sets the shutter speed), shutter-priority mode (you set the shutter speed, the camera automatically sets the aperture value), and program mode (aperture and shutter speed are determined by the camera according to the light meter readings and use focal length settings). Select which mode should be the content you're shooting. You want to control depth of field? please use Aperture priority mode. Want the shutter speed is not lower than a speed to capture movement instantly? please use shutter priority mode. Want to let your expensive camera into a nothing can control click? use the program mode (Canon call this the "automatic mode").

All camera manufacturers will then advise you: use the auto exposure mode, you can get good exposure.

Of course, the fact is your film will be a time exposure (you can also open the volume slice camera back, also can be a time exposure), but this is not necessarily a good or the correct exposure. Use auto exposure mode doesn't mean you can be very secure termination on the photography of the entire process. Regardless of whether the camera is auto focus, auto exposure mode can be used, but also not instrumented light mode.

In discussing the metering section, I discussed how to adjust based on moderate tone is photo objects.

Auto exposure mode also works this way. When using the manual exposure of the camera, you can manually adjust the aperture value or shutter speed, or two at the same time. Light meter displays the camera is pointing to the object rendering medium tonal exposure readings. When you use the aperture priority and shutter priority AE, once you have changed the shutter speed or aperture value, the camera automatically as you set another argument, however, if you are using the spot or central focus metering mode (Please read my previous discussion on evaluation of metering, which also applies to cases where the automatic exposure), the light meter will still display medium tonal values of exposure. Therefore, if you use any auto exposure mode, your camera pointing to where, no matter what parameters, absorbed object will always be logged as a moderate tone. AE, and manual exposure works exactly the same, on filming results have no impact.

For the lens to be photo object, if the automatic exposure always gives medium tonal values of exposure, how to shoot is not a medium tonal object? in AE mode, change the door speed or aperture size and cannot alter the exposure is the amount of light on chip, because the camera will automatically adjust to you for compensation.

If you set a smaller aperture f value, the camera will set the slower shutter speed. If you set a faster shutter speed, the camera and will be for you to set a larger aperture value. You can always go back to the midtones of the exposure settings. In order to be able to control the automatic exposure system, you must use the camera "automatic exposure compensation control" feature, which you can increase or decrease exposure compensation. Please read your camera's manual to learn how to use this feature. If you change a way to look at me in front of the exposure the chart, you will find the exposure compensation to achieve the same functionality.

Suppose you're Death Valley (Death Valley) of the dunes.

The sand is "talking" tone, + 1, about retaining the tonal and the tone of your Palm. Because you want to use auto exposure mode, but also to capture large tracts of the scenery, so you decide to use the aperture priority mode and aperture value is set to f/22. You already know if simple use camera recommended readings for filming purposes, Sandy will be shot into the middle tones. Therefore put the camera on a sandy, turning exposure bias dial to + 1, then the camera will automatically add a block of exposure. Because you've put the aperture to f/22, so the camera will keep the shutter speed to slow down a gear. Light-coloured sand imaging as a "brief" tone. Please remember that during the filming is complete, the exposure compensation to zero, otherwise after the photographs will increase the exposure of a block. If you are not careful, the automatic system is always automatically by making mistakes.

However, when shooting scenes in several tones when do? if you want to photograph your dunes expedition a friend in peer.

He wears a dark blue shirt standing in the dunes, and have the same lighting environment. You put the camera on the sand, the exposure compensation to + 1 makes the sand recorded as "shallow" color, and then back on to your friends picture composition. Such results correctly? of course not. When you turn the exposure compensation + 1 when you actually tell the camera the lens pointing to the object records for more than a moderate tone talking. stopper The camera does not know that you no longer have the lens pointing to sand. When you point to dark-coloured shirt, automatic exposure system automatically records the shirt is + 1 retaining exposure, i.e. the "talking" tone. The final photo is going to be? "from the" deep color "talking" between two tones, the entire film than normal exposure high two guards. So your negatives overexposed.

In fact, you forgot to use the automatic exposure system is an indispensable step.

You should be in the lens pointing to Sandy locks the exposure readings. In your camera probably have one called "AE lock" button (in the function of the camera is on half-press the shutter achieve). First you select the zone metering, according to the need to adjust the exposure compensation, and to the composition of a former lock exposure parameters. Some cameras can maintain this parameter and makeUse it to shoot some pictures, the camera can only capture one. To remind, you need to carefully read your camera manual.

If you give your friends shot using manual exposure the camera, you can sand metering, up a retaining exposure, then you can shoot your friends.

The camera does not itself alter the settings, because when using the manual exposure mode, you set the parameters that you will get results. But when using the auto-exposure mode, the camera is automatic exposure compensation and change the exposure parameters until you go to prevent it from doing so.

Let's make a small test: If a friend from your shirt started filming process, the light should be how to determine the exposure parameters such exposure results and results of sandy metering differ? first, the shirt is the tone of the "deep",-1, retaining the tonal.

On shirts metering, exposure compensation GoTo-1, and then lock exposure parameters, composition and recording. The shirt was recorded as deep tones. The sandy? it will also be logged in to the correct light tones. If your exposure to a color image is correct, the other colors will be correct. On the dark shirt metering and metering reading reduce a retaining and on sandy metering and metering readings increase a retaining the aperture/shutter speed combination results in exactly the same. You are just starting from different starting points for your calculation process.

I've already mentioned, but now and again: evaluation of the metering works and described above is not the same.

When you use evaluation metering, you cannot just for exposure compensation, because you never know what evaluation metering calculation where the starting point. It has been automatically increase or decrease the exposure you need in the evaluation of the metering mode on your camera for some test would make it possible to know, and a different brand of camera, the evaluation of the metering works is not the same. If you take a principal medium tonal objects, the evaluation of the metering mode can work very well. However, if you're shooting a series of incremental tones of middle tones of objects, I bet when you're shooting this series of both ends of the tonal range, you will not receive a normal result of the lithography. So you should learn is that, in what circumstances can trust evaluation metering, in what circumstances should avoid using it.

In a sense, I think the automatic exposure than manual exposure is more difficult to use because you must always press the AE lock button to avoid exposure parameters are changed.

When your two hands to go small adjustments when the tripod and of how to do? in the use of manual exposure, the camera will keep the same exposure parameters unchanged; and in the use of auto-exposure mode, unless the lens still point to the original object, otherwise light exposure parameters will be automatically changed.

Of course, in some cases, automatic exposure is also a good choice.

I personally think that Aperture priority is the most useful exposure mode, because the scenery photography and photographic, we need to always take into account the size of the depth of field. In these situations, the best shot is to be able to choose the right aperture f value, while observing the camera screen, the shutter speed is set to number. Also note that sometimes you have to select the exposure parameters of some compromise in order to avoid the wind or be taken of the impact of the move.

Automatic exposure is most useful in a situation when you need to change light when shooting.

For example, when there is a fast moving at high altitude, ground illumination strength will continue to change, perhaps at this point you were about to take cloud grass meadow under and bushes. First of all, according to your needs and adjust tone light and let the camera according to the change of light intensity adjustment for exposure parameters. At this point you can wait for the right time to shoot at any time, because you know that no matter how light changes the exposure will be correct. By the way, if your camera viewfinder has barred the viewfinder of the eye, it is recommended that you have to use it, or use a hand or hat covered viewfinder window to avoid any direct sunlight from entering the camera viewfinder. Because of the light meter not only affected by the light from entering the camera, while also being from another direction, through the viewfinder window into the light.

In theory, seems to shoot birds and wild animals should use shutter priority mode, but I almost never do.

If the camera is set to the corresponding aperture priority mode, you set the aperture f value, you will get the fastest possible speed of shutter. Suppose I now want to shoot in the pasture, off the animals around. If I use shutter priority mode and put the shutter to 1/250 sec, no matter what the lighting conditions will use this speed shooting, but the lens aperture may have to automatically reduce to obtain the correct exposure. If I use a maximum aperture is f/4 lens and the shutter speed to 1/250 second, when the animal in a cloud of light and shadow by running, lens aperture can be reduced to f/4.5 or smaller. However, if I use Aperture priority mode and aperture to f/4, in order to obtain the correct exposure, the camera will only increase the shutter speed. In this case, I would prefer to sacrifice a little depth of field in exchange for a faster shutter speed.

I use shutter priority mode only scenario is when I'm in bright sunlight Flash for fill light.

My Nikon F5 camera Flash sync speed is 1/250 sec, therefore I will put the shutter speed is set to this value, let the camera to aperture f value changes accordingly. This is in the Sun for supplemental lighting shooting, avoid excessive exposure of a relatively simple way. For example, I have been in the Falkland Islands, on a clear day shoot in rock jumping Penguin. These penguins are actually in the large circular stone hopping, in this area I was forced to hold a 80-mm lens to follow their movement. Rely on a shutter priority mode and put the shutter to 1/250 sec, I can achieve two objectives: I can guarantee that the shutter speed is not lower than handheld shooting allow shutter speed, and can guarantee the Flash sync speed.P > the AE mode "automatic mode" or "program exposure mode" is a kind of? just like I have said, any serious shooting tasks, you should avoid using this setting. This mode, the camera will set the shutter speed and aperture size, however, for your shooting environment, what you want or what is the correct exposure, camera and how do I know? if you must take care to look at the camera are doing and want to correct it from time to time, so why not start your own choice, manually set the shutter speed and aperture value f? but I can at least think about some of the occasions, in these cases the program exposure mode still has its uses. For example, I'm shooting in East Africa, I had the camera gave me drivers and use the wizard, so that they can better understand what I'm doing. I like a drivers can now select the lens focus to my suggestions: "we should use the lens 500mm?" When would you like to put your SLR camera into a point and click, the program exposure mode is also very useful, for example when you take a child's birthday party. In camera with some faster negatives, in the shoe jacket on Flash, continuous fire. In fact, think about that for such work, a true full-auto click might do better