Landscape photography must read tutorial (2)

There is no light meter is exposure: f/16 "sunny" rules built into the camera through the lens for metering (TTL: through-the-lens) light meter allows us to simplify the work of photography a lot. In fact, we are very dependent on this light meter, without it when things appear in front of our camera, we will feel some disorientation or confusion. I

There is no light meter is exposure: "sunny day" rule f/16

Built into the camera through the lens for metering (TTL: through-the-lens) light meter allows us to simplify the work of photography a lot.

In fact, we are very dependent on this light meter, without it when things appear in front of our camera, we will feel some disorientation or confusion. I know that some photographers can experience a more accurate estimate the correct exposure parameters, they also offer their proud this ability, but I'm not the kind of person. However, in a case, the correct exposure parameter is a constant, that is when you are in a bright sunshine for photography. In this case in order to get correct exposure value, you should follow what we call "sunny f/16" rule rules: in bright sunlight under the (high-altitude cloud-free, no mist, no air pollution), probably from Sunrise after a few hours until close to sunset several hours before, the positive light absorbed object with the correct exposure value approximate close to that of film ISO as shutter speed, Aperture to f/16 at the time of exposure, or any other equivalent exposure parameters. Oh, that's a bit too empty, let's take a more in-depth look at some of these rules.

First, the "sunny f/16" applies only to the bright, direct sunlight, not suitable for early morning or dawn of the Sun, nor suitable for mist or overcast light.

But this rule was not suitable for winter in North America, for use when the Sun is very near from the horizon, the light is very low. "Sunny" f/16. shoot macro, because many lens in close-up focus effective aperture size will change. In theory, the aperture f values only in infinite distance is accurate, the same aperture, focus, focus the light entering the lens at. But usually there is no need to worry about this problem, because your TTL metering table has turned the changes in the calculation. However, the "sunshine law" f/16 is no light meter is the exposure value, so when these conditions change, the law doesn't do. But this rule is only suitable for front illumination of the photo objects (sunlight from above your shoulders and the direct rays of height to be taken on objects). So, in summer noon, when the Sun is straight from the top down, and only when you want to shoot from top to bottom of your feet, you can apply the "sunshine law" f/16. If you would like to take this time as usual, you need to modify the "sunny f/16" rule parameters to suit the needs of the side effects of light exposure, I will briefly describe how to fix.

Also, this rule only on the uniform (average) tone of absorbed object is valid, is too bright or too dark objects are a problem.

In fact, most are taken from the tone is very uniform, with the photographer's words, are "intermediate" (middletoned). I personally do not like the "middle" for the remark, because when we discuss the tone, too many photographers use "middle gray" (middletone gray) the word, but we are not talking about black and white photography. Therefore I use the "medium" (medium) this word instead. This way you can say "medium green," and "medium red," "medium blue", and so on. (Translation: the words: average, middletone, medium is the couple got confused, don't know how to turn the appropriate expression should, in fact, is the concept of the 18% gray) don't forget is that when you use the "sunshine law" f/16, not necessarily to use ISO values as shutter speed, and f/16, can also be used for other equivalent exposure parameters for exposure. But this rule does not mention the use of the site. I had been asked at the top of the hill can I use the "sunshine law" f/16. The answer is Yes, because the Sun from us 93,000,000 miles away, I do not think that when we approached the Sun 10,000 and 12,000 feet, "sunny f/16," how the law. Now let's assume is ISO100 negatives, use "sunny f/16" rule, normal conditions of exposure parameters is 1/125 sec, f/16 or other equivalent value. In bright sunshine, there's no need to use only 1/125 sec, f/16, 1/250 sec, f/11 1/500 sec f/8, 1/1000 sec f/5.6 or 1/2000 sec f/4. Use a slow shutter speed, you can use 1/60 second f/22 or 1/30 second f/32 to shoot. These exposure parameter can have the same amount of light reaching the film. If you use ISO400 film, that is from 1/400 sec f/16, if you use ISO25 negatives, f16, 1/25 sec, ... And so on.

The same exposure means the same amount of light is on, so you can shoot environments require different exposure parameters to achieve the same exposure.

Do you need to use a high speed shutter to capture action moments? or need IRIS to achieve a greater depth of field? if you are shooting with ISO50 negatives a running deer, you will use 1/50 sec f/16 parameters? you are asked to say "no", please carefully consider. In that case is really only one exposure combination is correct? do you not like using fuzzy pictures to reflect the movement of feeling? in any case, a combination of aperture and shutter is correct or not depends on what you want to shoot the photos. The exposure is correct is entirely up to you to decide.

In most cases, when you're photographing wildlife, you'll use your longest lens, and more often is to adjust the appropriate shutter speed to capture the screen instantaneously.

But starting from f/16, calculation of Aperture should turn up several retaining to coincide with the shutter speed is suitable is very time-consuming, but there is an easier way. Equivalent to "sunny f/16" rule, you can use what I call "fast f/5.6" rule to achieve and "sunny f/16," the same exposure: your use of the ISO values of the film followed by a zero as the shutter speed, Aperture f/5.6. For example, using ISO100 negatives "sunny f/16" 1/125 sec f16, "fast f/5.6" using 1/1000 sec f/5.6. They are the same?, by conversion will find they have the same exposure. In shooting animals, this method is convenient because you can rarely count a majority, but usually at this time you used the aperture also in f/5.6 nearby.

By the way, don't know if you remember, the estimation of the exposure value for front illumination of the absorbed object.

For the side lighting objects, should be better than the basic exposure value up to the back of a gear; for lighting objects (backlight) should turn up the two retaining; for the entire composition is color in very shallow objects, you should reduce a block; for color deep should turn up a gear. However, keep in mind that these estimates of the exposure value only when there is no light meter is used, they do not apply to use TTL metering table.

The following two experiments: sunny day in Florida, at the side of the light circumstances take a close-up of the Heron, how do I estimate the correct exposure value you should be able to estimate the correct results.

Because we will use a telephoto lens, using the "fast f/5.6" rule. To narrow a retaining exposure to record the details of the Egret was white, as side light so then up a gear, and now back to the "fast f/5.6" exposure value, this is our estimate of the exposure value. Now let's try in the sunny day in September, to Yellowstone bison backlighting shooting dark brown. We shoot bison is not around, so we use the "sunshine law" f/16. Because it is a dark object, so large a retaining; because the backlight shot, and then open two guards. That a total of up to three retaining exposure value (from f/16 up to f/5.6). Of course, you can also turn up or out of the aperture or shutter speed combination to pick the one you deem appropriate exposure parameters. Although you won't always use these estimates of exposure parameters to take photos, but the "sunny f/16" principle is a helpful reference. You can often use this rule to check your light meter readings, because the law provides a known exposure reference. If you're shooting a bright sun, your light meter readings should and "sunny f/16" rule is similar, except that there is something wrong. Is not the camera battery is almost out of power or you forget? the filter from the lens on it (for example, use a polarizer generally need to turn up the two retaining exposure)? when in bright lighting conditions, such as when shooting in Florida shot bird or wildlife shooting in Kenya, it is best to put the camera's exposure parameters prior to estimate, so you can cope with some unexpected things to capture.

Use the "sunny f/16" rule will still be a problem, you need to know how to put the lens aperture to f/16.

This appears to be a very simple question, but on some lenses is not easy. Today's many zoom lens uses a technique called "variable aperture" (variable aperture) design, when the lens zoom, then the actual aperture size. These programs use two f value tag their maximum aperture value, such as the Nikon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 or Canon 35-350mm f/3.5-5.6. If you want to achieve a constant aperture, lens change, the aperture also must make the appropriate changes. If the physical size of the aperture remains unchanged, that when the lens zoom, Iris f value will change. For most variable aperture lens, lens aperture value marked on only one end of the short focus is correct. For older cameras, or only one end of the short focus lens, use "sunny f/16" rule, or as the lens zoom guess the right aperture value. I called some cameras is the "old-fashioned", since many new models of cameras can be controlled by setting the aperture value, or is the optional function. All Canon lens are working in this way, Nikon Lens either through the aperture ring on the lens mechanically settings, you can also use the camera bodyDirective sets the turntable in electronic form. When you use electronic means to set up, you set the aperture value is the actual aperture size, only the telephoto end of the maximum and minimum aperture is an exception.

Let us use the Nikon 28-105mm lens descriptions above described the phenomenon.

When the maximum aperture, the lens focal length by 28mm zoom to 105mm, aperture will change from f/3.5 is f/4.5. Here are 2/3 stop. This 2/3 stop changes will occur when the smallest aperture. In the end, 28mm minimum aperture is f/22; but in the end, is 105mm f/29. If you use the electronic form at f/4.5 and f/22 aperture values between settings, when a lens change, the aperture will remain constant. Integrated above the fact that if you use your camera and zoom lens with f/16 "sunny day" rule, you should avoid using the maximum or minimum aperture. As long as you use the middle of the aperture value, there would not be on the "sunny f/16," the application of the law. By the way, if you previously never know the estimated exposure and "sunny f/16" rule this thing, you really missed a very useful tool. If you want more information, please view the Fuji or Kodak film packaging of content in print.